The idiodyssey continues...

Training weekend on Morewenna

So we're about to depart on the first steps of our Fastnet 2011 campaign. It looks like we have a great mix of people on board and I've already fallen in love with Morewenna. She is such a cosy boat downstairs. Oil lamps and a little combustion heater down below. She has real character and smells very old worldy. A combination of the sea, a little mustiness and canvas, combined with all that lovely wood. No sterile plastic or fibreglass to be seen anywhere!

So off we go to learn how to sail her!

Where are the French Secret Service now?

So the tree huggers have arrived in London. Greenpeace had an open day for Rainbow Warrior near Canary Wharf which I happened across by chance. I was wondering if there were any French about to give some stick to, but I was disappointed as they were hiding somewhere. Clearly they are still embarrassed over their past deeds. I thought about going on board for a look see, but the sight of so many hippies with dirty dreads was too much for me. :)

Sailing down the Portuguese coast

Dolphins surfing alongside.

Is that you Mark?

Replica port barges on the Duoro.

Sunset at Figueira de Foz

A wee dram or two.

Navare.

Meat lovers.

After leaving Baiona, we have hopped down the Portuguese coast doing little day sailing stints ranging between 30 and 60nm at a time. We have stopped in Viano do Castelo, Leixoes (Porto), Figueira da Foz, and Navare. Some of these little port towns are beautiful and you can find some great little restaurants as long as you follow the seasoned travellers rule of never eating anywhere on a waterfront or in a main square. That being said, the Portuguese menu leaves a little to be desired sometimes. Omlette, rice and chips; pork steak, rice and chips; beef steak, rice and chips; you get the picture....luckily there have been a few nice surprises nestled away which we luckily have stumbled across. Porto was a highlight, due to the sampling of many a fine port. Who'd have thought that port comes from Porto!!! We wandered about the old town and found that the many port cellars offer free tours with accompanying samples of their wares. No wonder this place has always been a key port for sailors!

Landfall in Baiona

Brad on the helm.

Dave and Kat.

A tired old man.

A view across Baiona from the castle.

Looking out to sea from the castle.

First cold beers on land.

Estrella Galicia!

Mmmm pata negra.

With the strongest winds experienced the whole Biscay crossing we stormed into Baiona on the north west coast of Spain. As you can see from the pictures it was a cold and grey morning as we arrived. It didn't take long for us to clean up the boat, get showered and to hit a local bar for a refreshing beer or two. It is my second time in Baiona, and it really is a lovely little seaside village. The Galicia region of Spain is remarkable and should not be missed if one ever ventures up into the north west of Spain. So for my first Biscay crossing, this one was as easy as they come. We really had a pretty smooth ride over. With the wind being so light at times that we had to employ more mechanical means of propulsion! We quickly found a nice little wine bar, where we could sample some fine jamon serrano, iberico and pata negra, along with some fantastic Rioja. It doesn't get much better than this in Spain. The seafood here is also fantastic. Great calamari and baby squid. It is not hard to stay for a few days in a place like Baiona. No wonder Columbus chose to make Baiona his first landfall after discovering the "new world".

Biscay - somewhere in the middle

Stowaway!

On watch in the evening.

Flipper and his many friends flippering about.

So far the crossing of Biscay has been cool but quite comfortable. The seas have been slight to moderate and the wind has been pretty favourable for us coming from NE-E, allowing us to cruise along at 8 knots in 12-15 knots of breeze. We even had the gennaker up for a while to give us a few extra knots, which is always nice in an easy sea!

During the evenings the phosphorescent activity has been phenominally phantasmagoric. (I couldn't resist a little alliteration there!) With no moon, the effect has to be seen to be believed. The wake of the boat and each breaking wave just light up with an eerie green glow. Even more amazing than seeing this, is to see the dolphins swimming alongside, behind and in the bow wave of the boat. They rocket around the boat like torpedoes leaving an amazing phosphorescent trail behind them. One can watch this activity for hours when passing time on a long night watch. A sight only sailors get to enjoy!

Only 100nm until Capo Villano which is where we will more or less sail into Spanish territorial waters. Then we have a further 60-70nm until we make port in Baiona.

Falmouth to Lisbon: the beginning.

On deck.

Falmouth lighthouse.

Sunday racing in Falmouth.

So after some engine issues we decided we were ready to depart. There is an ok weather window which will bring us some semi favourable winds to help us across to Spain. There is certainly nothing worth waiting for in the next week. Lets hope we get some nice breezes from the norwest or noreast and then we can fly down under the gennaker. :) Till Spain then!

Arrival in Palma.

30m down.

Monkey up a mast.

View across the marina.

We arrived in Palma after almost seven days at sea at four in the morning. It was a shame we didn't stop anywhere along the way but that is often the case with delivery work. No rest for the wicked. The first few days we had the chance to see the sights of Palma. The old city is reputed to be the biggest in Europe according to the Lonely Planet. But with what I have seen of their accomodation price estimates and reality, this "fact" could also be far from the truth. So in this fantastic old town we enjoyed the tapas and cold beer the Spaniards are famed for. Chippirones (baby squid), jamon Ibérico, pimientos de padron (salted roast peppers), and many more delights were savoured. One can't help noticing how all the luxury brands have crammed themselves into each nook and cranny here in Palma in an effort to purvey their preposterously overpriced goods to the stupidly rich. It is subsequently amusing then to see a few of the entrepreneurial boys from south of the Med (who may or may not have arrived in Europe without visas) flogging their copies of the same gear "after hours" while you dine at any of the local restaurants in the area. Is this what was meant by globalisation? ;) As the boat is now for sale, I have spent the last few days helping to prepare it for a winter in Palma with some good old clean and polish action. Nothing is quite so stimulating as polishing all the shiny bits on a boat. You should try it. Perfect for one who is in such a pensive state of mind as I often find myself these days. Solved a few of the worlds problems I did. Now if only I could get a few of our world leaders to sniff some cleaning solvents....

Sardinia.

Blur.

Sardinian coast.

Deck work.

Today we reached the Sardinian coastline. The weather has been fair with a nice 20 knot breeze pushing us from behind resulting in some nice downhill sailing for a change. We have had very few dolphin sightings this trip which may go some way to explain why we have had no more luck with the fishing! Not much food about! There are however a lot of jellyfish about, which makes for some interesting phosphorescent light displays at night as our prop chews them up and spits them out the back of the boat. Ahhhh the things that amuse one when on a boring night watch. ;)

Straights of Messina.

Myself and Jan.

Sail number 91086

The southern Italian coast.

Spars and spreaders.

We reached the southern Italian main land a few hours ago. Now heading up the Straights of Messina between Sicily and the mainland. A good journey so far. The usual uncomfortable short choppy wave patterns in the Med which make sleep difficult to achieve were ever present! At least we have been able to make a good course straight down our rhumb line. Yesterday to entertain ourselves we started a spot of fishing off the back of the boat. After one good bite we had something on the end of the line. But while cruising along at 9kts and with Jan not wanting to drop or ease the sails and slow down, our catch made a smart escape. However, I think he needed a visit to the dentist afterwards! Then not 15mins later Martijs caught a dolphin fish who was not so lucky. Then it was here I learned a new Dutch trick. Martijs called for the rum and here I thought he was going to toast our catch. Then he grabbed the fish and opened its gills and poured in a little rum. Seconds later our fishy was dead as a door nail. I was amazed on two counts: firstly how quickly the fish died, and secondly at the waste of rum on a fish. ;) I explained that the Aussie way was a simple whack to the head or even just cutting the head off straight away. We would never dream of wasting good alcohol on a fish in this fashion! However, maybe this is where the expression "to drink like a fish" comes from? I never knew that such drinking could have such fatal consequences! ;)

Lady in Red - Delivery

Nice boat.

From the cockpit.

B.F.W. (Big F Winch!)

Stern view.

Starboard fore quarter.

Hellas!

Today we start sailing from Kos in Greece to Mallorca in Spain. I sail as mate for Jan, a Belgian guy who I met while doing my yachtmaster exam. He is currently employed as skipper of Lady in Red who is owned by a wealthy Portuguese gentleman. We sail non-stop to Palma in Mallorca and it should take us about seven days all going well. We head through the Greek islands around the south of Pelepponese, into the Ionian Sea, south of the Italian mainland then through the straights of Messina, south of Sardinia, and then finally across to Mallorca. About 1,100 nautical miles. Lady in Red is a 78ft Swan Nautor. Very niiiiice! First time on a boat this size for me. Electric winches, hydraulic vang, outhaul, forestay and running backstays. All the usual kit you expect to see on a big boat. Luckily not much grinding is expected! We're cruising along now in the sun, making an easy 10kts in a 20kt northerly. Very nice. Now where has that bottle of ouzo gone?